walking through history.

more randomness from historic Germany.

When one has a day off in a foreign country, one should always make the best of it.

and so we did....

An hour ride on the S-Bahn took our motley gang of 14 to the tiny hamlet of Bacharach, situated on the steep hill sides of the Rhine River,  amongst countless vineyards. A feast for the eyes.

Leaving the train station, the first image our eyes were treated to was exactly what one conjures up when thinking about German Villages:  cobblestone streets, outdoor cafes and old churches- almost as cool as Epcot Center!  Our gang of Touristas wandered and snapped hundreds of picts on our CoolPix, CyberShots, FlipCams and 5Ds. ( I shoulda brought my 1983 Disc Camera).

Quarterfinals today. Win or Go Home.
In an odd WW2 pairing, the Allies of England and France face each other at 9aPT.  Then Axis powers Japan and Germany battle at 11:45aPT.   hmmm.
World #2 ranked Germany have the better team, have that home field advantage and have better players (with fun names to try to pronounce!).  Japan counters with a #4 ranking and a monster threat on Free Kicks.  Watch for Miyama and Sawa- She became the oldest player to ever score a hat trick at the WWC, at 32+ years vs Mexico in the second match.
For France/England, my bet is on the Brits. This is Kelly Smith's time to shine.

OH- and don't forget to set the timer on your Krups automatic coffeemaker to 8a on Sunday in order to wake up and watch the US/Brazil match at 8:30aPT.  Pour another cup at 1p and watch my Portland Timbers play those hosers from Seattle

Back to Bacharach.  

that's a mini-me version of Erick the Valdez at the bottom

We hiked up the skinny streets and up into the vineyard, then up into the vineyard tower. Yes, I know I keep using the word 'up'.  That is entirely on purpose, because this is a very vertical town.  It feels like every walk we take is Up. (also a great movie, by the way).  I am constantly amazed at the incline of the hills that these grapevines grow on.  Primarily know for Riesling, the area has a unique advantage to vintners.

The Steeg Valley opens to the Rhine at Bacharach and above the town, a great east-to-west slate hillside presents a giant, steep, south-facing slope of slate and shale to the sun.  The river reflects the sun onto the slate terraces all day and this warmth is then released by the stone throughout the night, ensuring a long growing season for the Riesling vines planted there and long, slow maturation for their grapes, locking in deep, concentrated fruit flavors.

Across from the vineyard tower sits the Wernerkapelle, a chapel built to honor a young boy killed under mysterious circumstances and which created a possible false legend.  Constructed from 1287 to 1430, it was destroyed in 1689 when the French attacked Castle Stahleck and rubble rained down on the chapel. Which brings us yet to another level of Up.


As we ascended the steep trail through the trees I spotted a lady in t-shirt with 'Willamette' printed on it. What the?  I had to stop and ask. She is a school teacher from Eugene, Oregon. wow, small world eh?

The Castle Stahleck offers views reminiscent of what you see from Vista Point in the Columbia River Gorge, just more populated.  From here, you get the birds-eye view of what Bacharach is all about; trains, boats, vineyards, hills, rivers, castles etc.   The earliest document mentions this castle in 1135, in connection with Lord Goswin von Stahleck.  Changing hands countless times through war, politics and once even through a deceitful marriage, this place has experienced more drama than JR Ewing and Jack Bauer combined.  Mostly destroyed in battles from 1620 through 1644, then rebuilt in 1909, the castle is now home to a Youth Hostel.

It seems that every tourist is drawn to the center of town and for obvious reasons. From this main intersection, you can sit at an outdoor cafe in the shadow of circa 1597 St Peters Church, drink wine made from grapes harvested just up the hill you hiked, watch cyclists on tour or be jealous of the all motorcycle riders.   We sampled the Riesling and a local Red, that I can't pronounce.  The non-English speaking waitress assured this non-German speaking yahoo that it was from this area...I think.   Regardless, it was delightful way to drink in the local culture.

Today's Daily Døpplégåangér DoubleShot needs no juxtaposing photo. This fella making a comeback looks a lot like that other guy from the '80's!